The last time the three of us traveled together, we were 22, racing around Santorini on a rented moped with a map flapping wildly in the wind and our travel bible, Let’s Go Greece and Turkey 1994, tucked away in my backpack. We had no plan, very little money, and a blind trust in adventure.
More than three decades later, we returned to the road to test our travel compatibility: the planner, the winger, and the go-between. This time, we were celebrating our birthdays on São Miguel, an island in the North Atlantic Ocean, where volcanoes shape daily life.
Back in our 20s, we hitchhiked without hesitation, narrowly escaping the advances of a Greek salesman, whose English was limited to “You and me… sex... money.” This time, we opted to rent a car and navigate winding roads through emerald pastures and crater lakes, rediscovering the thrill of shared adventure.
For three nights, we shared close quarters in a suite, where comfortable beds replaced the air mattresses from our camping days, exposing two light snorers and a heavy breather. Thankfully, I had booked a three-bedroom house for the next four nights.
Nestled inside a massive volcanic crater lies Lagoa de Sete Cidades, two connected lakes – one appearing emerald-green and the other deep blue. I planned to do a hike, but the chilly, windy weather deterred my travel companions.
Friends reunite for outdoor activities in the Azores
“There’s no way I’m hiking in this weather,” the winger protested, which to me was like driving to the Dead Sea and not setting foot in it.
Travel had once seemed effortless between us. Now, after decades of careers, families, and firmly established habits, compromise took more effort than it had at 22; tension set in, hovering over us like a mist for the next two days.
The buggy’s engine rattled as we set off once again for Sete Cidades, this time with the owner of 4x4Azores.
“Be prepared for four seasons in one day,” Pedro warned us.
That was no lie. Despite poor visibility at the lake, he provided valuable insight into the simple, slow-paced island life, and the unpredictable weather became part of the adventure.
Cooking for two meat eaters and a vegetarian with the limited condiments on hand was challenging. We argued about whether soup powder belonged in lentil soup at all, and after two not-so-successful attempts at cooking meals in our Airbnb, the go-between insisted on eating out. She met with no resistance.
Furnas announces itself before you see it – the faint smell of sulfur drifting through the valley as steam curls from the earth. We pulled up at the Octant Furnas, leaving our days of backpacker meals far away, as a hotel staff member handed us aprons and toques for the cozido workshop.
In the kitchen, we layered a pot the way locals have done for generations – cabbage and yams first, forming a cushion for the thick cuts of meat covered with another layer of vegetables and topped with wine, red pepper sauce, and salt. Before sealing the pot, the sides were lined with kale to prevent burning.
We then drove to Caldeiras da Lagoa das Furnas, where our dinner disappeared into the warm volcanic earth for seven hours.
While the cozido was cooking slowly beneath the surface of São Miguel, we meandered along winding streams, admiring the rare, exotic plants and indigenous species flourishing in the volcanic soil at Terra Nostra Park. Slipping into the amber-brown waters of the park’s thermal pool, memories surfaced of us bathing at Pamukkale, Turkey. We all wore bikinis then. Now we were down to one-pieces.
The steamy Turkish bath at the Octant Furnas awakened intimate conversation, and the tension from the last two days slowly dissipated. By dinnertime, we were relaxed and ready to taste our hard-earned cozido. Surprisingly, it was dry and bland, but age teaches that the experience outweighs the meal.
São Miguel is famous for whale watching, but the weather had other ideas. When our morning excursion was canceled, we reluctantly retreated to a shopping mall to escape the rain. With varying tolerance levels for browsing stores, the go-between proposed splitting up for an hour. “It felt like two,” said the winger afterward. To me, the quiet solitude was bliss.
The mist rolled in as we clambered into the jeep with a guide and beelined to Caldeira Velha, a real-life Jurassic Park landscape of thermal springs.
Salto do Prego tested our fitness. Together we made it up the ascents to the hidden waterfall, where the crisp, icy water provided a welcome relief from the heat. In the evening, nature replaced nightlife as we soaked in the thermal waters of Poca da Dona Beija, watching the steam rise against the ambient lighting.
Three friends, three different travel styles
In Ponta Delgada, our differing travel styles resurfaced when a parking officer issued us a ticket despite our having paid. A gust of wind had flipped the parking stub face down, hiding the arrival time.
“Let’s just pay it,” said the winger. The go-between and I disagreed. An hour and some bureaucratic hurdles later, the ticket was canceled. Some things, it seemed, hadn’t changed in 30 years.
We circled Vila Franca Islet, the exposed rim of an underwater volcano rising from the Atlantic, before checking in at the Octant Ponta Delgada, where attention to small comforts, from refresher towels on arrival to cookies left in our room after dinner, didn’t go unnoticed. The eucalyptus-scented spa with its soothing, Zen-like music invited us to unwind before our flight home.
Dinner was served at À TERRA, where we lingered for two hours sipping white wine and sampling Azorean cheeses, followed by a hearty meal. With each bite, memories from a friendship spanning decades unfolded, layer by layer, as we reminisced about our youth, past relationships, and the losses and hardships endured.
Before checking out, I noticed a book on the bedside table: The Things You Can See Only When You Slow Down. It could easily have been São Miguel’s unofficial motto.
Long after the crater lakes and thermal springs begin to fade, what lingers is the island’s invitation to slow down – to share long meals, soak in geothermal waters, and reconnect with lifelong friends.
What to do on "The Green Island":
- 4x4Azores
- Guided buggy and jeep tours exploring Sao Miguel’s crater lakes, volcanic landscapes, and scenic viewpoints.
- Futurismo Azores Adventures
- Adventure tour operator offering whale watching, hiking, jeep excursions, and nature-based experiences across the island.
- Octant Furnas: Cozido workshop + thermal circuit
- Hands-on introduction to Sao Miguel’s traditional geothermal stew (vegetarian option available), plus spa experience.
- Vila Watersports Center
- Boat tours and water activities around Vila Franca Islet, a protected volcanic nature reserve.
- Octant Ponta Delgada
- Contemporary waterfront hotel, within easy reach of Ponta Delgada’s airport, marina, restaurants, and attractions.
The writer is a freelance journalist and avid traveler. When not exploring São Miguel, she can be found at ilanasp29.wixsite.com/curriculum-vitae-r.